Why did the chicken cross the road? It is in Kaua’i that I found the answer.
I had been standing at the exit of a parking lot for close to ten minutes, trying to find a break in the oncoming traffic, so I could turn onto the road. I was getting frustrated. It was a busy time of the day and nobody seemed to want to let me get on the road.
Suddenly, a chicken started to walk from the boundary of the parking lot onto the road; the traffic came to a halt as the chicken slowly made its way across the road, pausing momentarily in the middle to chide the onlookers for not letting me turn. Obviously, I could not let this noble chicken’s great deed go to waste. I turned onto the road, thanked the chicken silently, and then it dawned upon me. The question was answered. Once and for all.
During the last big hurricane, many farms were destroyed, letting the goats and chickens run amuck and find refuge in the wilderness. They found food in paradise, copulated and began to thrive. Now they roam freely and share the island with their human companions. It was all fun and games until the goats, specifically, started to eat the vegetation in and around the Waimea Canyon. This has resulted in a significant decay in the greenery along the ridge lines of the canyon. Now that you are enlightened, let’s talk about the lesser things in life.
Island Overview
Have you ever looked outside an airplane window while landing and seen more shades of green than you knew how to name? This is what it felt like descending upon Lihu’e airport in Kaua’i, The Emerald Island.
Maybe it’s the instant bias I developed after laying my eyes on the first Hawaiian piece of paradise, but Kaua’i remains my favorite of the four islands I’ve visited. Some of you are adrenaline junkies, some are beach dwellers who’d rather spend their days away under an umbrella with a Pina Colada, and others who’d rather get away from civilization and lose themselves in the wilderness. Kaua’i has something to satiate all of you.
Kaua’i has retained its heritage a little better than some of the other islands, resisting over commercialization. Signage can be scarce, making it a little confusing for tourists to find beaches and other points of interest. Make sure to study Google maps for planning your day before you head out.
Building codes require that a structure can be no taller than a palm tree. Did you know that palm trees can be 6 to 7 stories high?!! Although this has deterred resorts from popping up left and right, there are two clusters of resorts; one in the south at Poipu and the other in the north at Princeville and Hanalei. A few are sprinkled around Lihu’e and Kapa’a on the eastern shore. My hand drawn map will help you with references throughout this post.
The sleepy Waimea town sits in the southwest. Here the golden sunlight kisses the tips of the grass blades covering the fields at the base of the hills that hide the Waimea Canyon in their bosom. While on the northwest side, the commanding presence of the fluted Na’pali hills prohibits entrance into a world remained mostly untouched by the folly of man. Woah! Maybe I should quit my job as an engineer and become a poet.
Until I can start chugging out nature poetry like it’s nobody’s business, I recommend sauntering over to my posts Waimea: Kauai’s Western Wilderness and Backpacking the Kalalau Trail (Part 1 and Part 2) to learn more about the southwest and northwest sides of the island. They both hold a special place in my heart. Thus, it was only apt to explore those and write about them in more detail. If you are really short on time, consider taking a helicopter tour.
Po’ipu: The Land of Eternal Sunshine
I decided to stay away from the humdrum of the southern resort area, i.e. Po’ipu but I still wanted to drive around and see what it was all about. The Tunnel of Trees was pretty neat. You don’t have to go all the way to Po’ipu to see it. You can make a left onto 520 from from 50 on your way to Waimea and it’s right there. Eucalyptus trees line both sides of the road and form a canopy above. If traffic is light, take the opportunity to stop at one of the makeshift pullovers (they are few and tight) to snag a quick picture. The trees were planted by a Scottish man named Walter McBryde. Hurricanes ‘Iwa and ‘Iniki both tore the tunnel to shreds but each time the trees grew back forming their canopy. Natural resilience at play here, my friends. Follow 520 further south and you’ll get to Koloa. It’s a cute little plantation town with some boutiques and gift shops. This area is pretty well signed and you can easily find your way to Po’ipu.
Once in Po’ipu, I instantly saw the charm. The water is blue and clear, unlike Waimea, where river runoff makes the sea water murky. The absence of a significant reef system on the west also makes the beaches unsafe for swimming, but here in Po’ipu you can find relatively calm waters for swimming and snorkeling. Another local attraction is the Spouting Horn that kids in particular will take a liking to. If you are there in summer, the big waves smash a ton of water into the bottom of a lava tube that shoots out from a hole above. It also makes this cool whistle like sound in the process. It’s mesmerizing even for an adult. And strangely soothing.
Right next to the Spouting Horn, there are stalls with overpriced gifts. They are fun to browse through. Don’t buy them. Do it somewhere in the north and you might find better prices. Other places you might want to explore in the area are National Tropical Botanical Gardens and McBryde Gardens. I didn’t go to either of them because in my mind I was already walking around in a tropical garden.
One place I do regret not visiting is the Maha’ulepu Beach. Everything I read about this place made it so appealing but I had already jammed so much into this trip that I had to compromise. It’s highly recommended as one of the best beaches on Kaua’i by Fodor’s, with sand dunes, sinkholes, caves and hills sprinkled all over the place. One important thing to note is that the access is through private property and the owner allows public access during daylight, but you must leave prior to sunset.
Lihu’e and Kapa’a: The Busy Bees
Lihu’e is a busy area and rush hour traffic can be hard to get around but if you live on the East Coast of continental United States, then it’s a breeze. This is a good place to stock up on food and other supplies, with big mainland chain stores marking there presence in the area. Or you could just support local economy and go to places like Sunshine Market that mostly sell local (and more delicious) produce. If you want to try authentic Hawaiian cuisine, you’re in the right place. Be adventurous and walk into a hole in the wall or venture into a ma and pa place. ‘Plates’ are big in Kaua’i.
The east side is your gateway to adventure, with several outfitters operating out of here. You can catch helicopter tours, sign up for a kayaking adventure down the Wailua River, or go tubing amidst sugar plantations. The sunsets on this side of paradise aren’t as spectacular but there is plenty to see and do. If you choose to make this your base for exploring the island, there is an abundance of lodging options.
One place worth mentioning is the Marriott’s Kaua’i Beach Club. This resort is awesome; it is also the tallest building on the Island (with the 6-7 story tall palm trees). It is situated on a lagoon, has a huge swimming pool, and beach access where the waters are turqouise and calm.
You can see paddle boarders dotted across the lagoon early in the morning, getting lessons from an on-site instructor. My favorite was the breakfast buffet at one of their onsite restaurants. This was the only time during the entire trip that I stuffed myself and did not regret it even one bit. My only regret is that I didn’t stay here longer. If I ever go back to Kaua’i, I would stay here the whole time.
Coconuts are not native to the islands of Hawai’i. They were planted by settlers a long time ago and have taken over some parts of the islands. One such place is Coconut Beach in Kapa’a. This is also a great place to stay and you can find many traditional bed and breakfasts around here. If you are looking for some easily accessible waterfalls, make your way to Oaeka’a and Wailua Falls.
As you drive up north on 56, you’ll notice the terrain change ever so slightly until it bursts into lush green vegetation. Your last stop on the east side (really, northeast) is at the Kilauea Lighthouse and Wildlife Refuge. If you are going to Mau’i and Hawai’i (The Big Island) on the same trip, snag a multi-park pass at the Kilauea ticket booth.
The charm of this place lies in the sweeping views of the ocean with a lighthouse standing in the corner of the picture perfect scenery. Across from the the lighthouse, hundreds of birds dot the green and brown terrain, while nenes frolic around on the green tuft surrounding the lighthouse. Nene is also the state bird of Hawai’i and is considered an endangered specie.
Hanalei and Ha’ena: A Tale of Green
When I talk about the north of Kaua’i, I get really excited. I think I exaggerate everything but in my mind it’s all true. You have to be there to understand how beautiful it is. The farther west you drive from Kilauea, the more vibrant the green becomes, the thicker the vegetation gets until you hit the end of the highway at Ke’e where the Na’pali coasts’ northern end begins.
Make your way slowly though Hanalei, try a delicious swordfish sandwich at Hanalei Gourmet for lunch and grab a few uniquely designed postcards at the shop next door. The post office is conveniently located a few blocks down the road. If you happen to be a rookie artist like me who regrets leaving behind art supplies, there is a small art store in Hanalei with a decent variety of art supplies. There is so much beauty inspiring you to draw and paint!
Finding beaches in this area can be a challenge as there are absolutely no signs. One of the best beaches in all of Hawai’i is located on this island: Hanalei Bay. The sand is soft, clean and golden, the water is so clear, you can see the detailed relief of your feet as you walk into knee deep water. Parts of the beach have tremendously calm waters, making it extremely safe and fun for all ages. There is plenty of paddle boarding and surfing fun as you make your way out towards the bay entrance. There is bliss here.
The area is marked by two big resorts: Princeville and Hanalei Bay Resort. Princeville has a really nice beach front set up but staying here can be very expensive. The Hanalei Bay Resort is a timeshare property that provides beach access as well but with no chairs or umbrellas. There isn’t even a place to rinse the sand off your feet. The way back to the resort area requires an uphill trek that can be a workout, unless you decide to call for a golf cart to carry you. Keep these in mind if you decide to stay here. There are a surprising number of Airbnb listings for Hanalei valley, that are worth checking out.
Do you have any other cool lodging and activity recommendations in the area? If you referenced this post to plan a trip to Kaua’i, what did you find most helpful? I’d love to hear from you in the comments below!
